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You should be feeding the food your Breeder sends home with you. Changing a puppy’s food is very hard on their system when first going to a new home with the stress of leaving everything they know. So be sure to continue with the food your Breeder provides. If you change their food they will get diarrhea which isn’t good for puppy and can be very dangerous in a small puppy due to dehydration and the issues that can arise from that. If you want to change your puppy’s food to a different brand wait until they are 10 months of age and do it gradually as you change them to adult food.
For the first few weeks (2-3) of your puppy being in their new home allow them to free feed. This means whenever you're home and your puppy is out running around and you're supervising; you not only allow them to have unencumbered access to water but also food. Once your puppy has had a few weeks to acclimate and settle in you can get them on a meal routine; meaning you feed them 2-3 times daily based on your schedule. Keep in mind to not put more than 12 hours between meals. Puppies, like babies are growing constantly and need the food to fuel their bodies.
The food your Breeder supplies will have a chart on the back based on their estimated adult weight. It's guideline; some puppies eat more, some less depending on their activity level and needs. The frist comuple days in a new home is not a good indicator of theirj daily needs as they're appetite will be suppress usually because of the stress of going to a new home. Still offer them the recommended amount and ply them with a little soft food; like putting ketchup on a child's chicken to get them to eat. This will entice them but be cautious not to continue this as they will expect it all the time. Soft food is good as an enticement to encourage eating in the first few days of being at a new home. Alternately you can put a little warm water on the their kibble to bring out the smell. Dogs are enticed more by scent than taste and sometimes the smellier the better. That being said if your dog is eating 1/2 - 3/4 of their recommended amount in the first few days don't introduce soft food. Water is the better alternative.
Your puppy only drinks water. Puppies don’t drink milk once they have been weaned from their Mother.
Your puppy needs to be in a safe area when you’re not home or not able to watch the puppies (i.e. Sleeping, working, eating dinner, or otherwise out of the house). So your puppy should be in a crate, playpen or blocked off in a safe area of your home where they can’t hurt themselves or your things. You would never leave a human toddler running around your house unsupervised….the same goes for a puppy. They are toddlers and can hurt themselves if left alone to explore unsupervised. We personally prefer crate training with an exercise pen so that while we cannot keep both eyes on the puppy at least the puppy is safe.
*Crate training instructions are later in the FAQ’s and there are many video's online explaining the process.
As part of our Guarantee you are required to go to the Vet for a check-up with-in 5 day of the puppy leaving our care. Your Vet will advise you as per the vaccination schedule to return. Failing to go to your 5 day Wellness Check means you void your Guarantee.
As per your puppy's Guarantee your puppy should be spayed or neutered between 6 – 9 months of age. Remember failure to spay/neuter your puppy between 6 and 9 months of age voids your Guarantee.
Until your puppy has their 2nd vaccination and has had time for the vaccination to take effect, your puppy should stay to your home and backyard. That means no sidewalks, no floor of the Veterinarian’s Office, no Dog Parks, no other dogs or places other dogs have been. If you take your puppy around other dogs or where other dogs have been before they get their 2nd vaccination you risk the chance that they may get sick. In other words, “better safe then sorry.” Until the second vaccination is fully effective you’re puppy is not immune.
We don’t recommend treats for training your puppy. Treats should only be introduced once the puppy is older. The puppy’s system is just new and as a baby a change in diet remember can cause diahrea and that’s not good for your puppy. So wait until your puppy is about 6 months of age before introducing any treats and never as a reward.
Just like all non-shedding or low-shedding dogs your puppy should be groomed (have their hair trimmed) every 6-8 weeks. The longer the hair the more maintenance in between grooming's is required.
You should be brushing your dog at least once a day paying close attention to where the knots form; like where their tail brushes their back, behind their ears and where their legs meet their torso, where their collar or harness rubs and between their legs and on the feet. The more knots they have the more like a matt will form. If your dog becomes matted it's more likely that your Groomer will have to shave them down. It's not fair to put your dog through the pain of all that hair pulling so preventative maintenance is the key. Brush right down to the skin not just the 1st inch. Us a pin brush and a metal comb to do the job.
Your puppy would be fine to have a bath every 2 – 3 weeks. Puppies and dogs get smelly and dirty from their environment not from sweat. If they run through a puddle or roll in something to make them dirty or smelly bathe them. The key is to try not to bathe your puppy too much as they lose their needed body oil. When you wash or bathe them too often you wash off the needed body oil and they will get itchy dry skin. However ultimately you don't want to have dirty dog running around your house. Use your coommon sense and if you can get away with rinsing paws rather than a full bath do that.
**NOTE: ONLY use a puppy / dog shampoo.
Your puppy is required to have 3 vaccinations currently in the first year. A puppy receives their 1st vaccination at about 7 weeks of age, their 2nd vaccination which is a booster shot to the first at about 11 weeks of age and their 3rd vaccination is the Rabies & Distemper vaccination which is given at about 16 weeks of age. Remember to follow your Veterinarian’s recommendations for vaccinations. Some Vet's also recommend additional vaccinations for things like Leptosporosis. Do your research beforehand as some breeds don't accept some additional vaccines well.
Your puppy has been de-wormed on a scheduled as per our Veterinarians instructions. Puppies and dogs eat things off the ground, and lick each other. It’s not uncommon for your puppy to get worms. It’s nothing to be too concerned about. Your Vet will give you some medication which will de-worm them again. It's not uncommon to have to deworm your dog even as an adult at times.
Here's how your normal day will go
Remember Saturday is just like any weekday to a puppy. So you’ll still have to get up at your normal time to take your puppy outside for a pee and regular times for breakfast and dinner. If you’re not up to take the puppy out then they will just go where they are and then you have a mess to clean up and puppy will take longer to train.
The more accidents a puppy has in your home the longer it will take to train them. Think of them as a 2 year old child running around your house without a diaper on. If they are not supervised they are peeing on your floor. They need your guidance to know where the right place to pee and poop is. So, the more routine you can make your daily activities with your puppy the faster they will learn. Dogs are creatures of habit and love things the same way all the time. So repeat, repeat, repeat…..
Step 1: Acquaint your puppy with his or her safe space. Show him/her the crate with the door open, maybe toss a piece of the Royal Canin puppy kibble in as an enticement to enter. Let the puppy run in and out freely for a little while so that they get accustomed to the space.
Step 2: You want your puppy to be comfortable in his/her new home so place the divider in the needed space to allow your puppy enough room to stand up, lie down and be comfortable. Put an old towel or blanket that is easily washed as accidents can happen. A toy is always nice as well so that your puppy has something to play with or chew on while he/she is in their bed.
Step 3: Your puppy will go to bed when you go to bed or in his/her crate when you cannot watch them. If it’s an extended period of time make sure to use water management, so take all the food and water away 1 – 1 ½ hours before puppy goes in the crate to ensure and empty bladder and bowel. If it’s bed time, puppy goes to bed when the last person goes to bed so 3 – 4 hours before bed no more food or water. That way puppy has 3 – 4 hours to empty out.
If you put a puppy to bed empty they wake up dry. This also ensures that he/she will be able to last longer in the crate without you having to go to them to take them out. The odd accident will happen. Don’t get discouraged, they are babies and have to learn. You want to set them up for success and so water management is a key part of crate and potty training.
Step 4: It is normal for a puppy to cry in their crate the first couple nights. The key is not to go to them when they cry. If you do all you’re doing is rewarding bad behaviour. If it’s the middle of the night and you’ve taken puppy’s food and water away 3 – 4 hours before bed the likelihood of them having to pee or poop at 2 am is slim.
If it’s 5 am and puppy’s been in his/her crate since 11 pm then it’s probably time to take puppy out for a potty break. If you’re not ready to start your day do it quietly so they don’t think it’s time to party. Put puppy back to bed in the crate after you take him/her out and go back to bed yourself and get up at your normal morning time.
Step 5: Understand the young puppies need to go potty every couple hours so if you’re home make sure you’re taking puppy to the potty every 1 – 1 ½ hours to catch those accidents in the spot where you want them to happen. Whenever puppy leaves the crate he/she should immediately go outside. For the first little while you will need to pick puppy up and carry him/her to the bathroom. If not puppy is likely to walk out of the crate and go potty on your floor. So when his/her feet touch the ground they are where you want puppy to potty.
Remember PRAISE, PRAISE, PRAISE every time puppy goes potty in the right place. When puppy has an accident in the wrong spot it’s not his/her fault it’s yours for not paying attention. If you catch puppy in the act quickly pick him/her up and take him/her to the potty and PRAISE there, then go back and clean up the mess on the floor. If the accident happened and you don’t know when, clean it up and watch puppy. It’s not puppy’s fault it’s yours.
If the puppy pees on your floor it’s not the puppy’s fault it’s yours because you weren’t watching them close enough. If you catch your puppy peeing or pooping, make a loud noise, to distract them a bit and take puppy outside before you clean the mess up. That way puppy is associating being outside with that action. However, if you don’t catch them in the act just clean up the mess, the puppy has already forgotten what they just did and has moved onto doing something else. Praise the positive and ignore the negative.
Until your puppy is house trained try to keep him/her to areas of your home that are easy to clean if there is an accident. If you have area rugs roll them up until your puppy is trained. Carpet is very absorbent and puppies like it because if they pee they don’t get their feet wet. However it’s much more difficult to clean a rug or carpet so remove the temptation if you can or avoid those areas unless you’re watching your puppy constantly.
Puppies don’t have opposable thumbs and to test out the world as babies they use their mouth. If your puppy is chewing on something you don’t want him/her to you need to make sure they understand this is inappropriate behaviour. You need to show him who is boss otherwise he'll think you're his dog. So if he nips or bites on something you don't want him to make a very LOUD noise which will redirect his attention enough that you can focus his attention on; something else like a toy.
If he is nipping at your toes or fingers make a LOUD noise like he's hurting you a lot even if it doesn't hurt. This will let him know that he's doing something that hurts you. Use a very stern deep voice to say 'NO' to scold him. If he keeps it up then give him a time out. 1 minute in the bathroom with the lights off is sufficient. He'll learn that when he does something bad he gets put in the dark place and associates that action with that punishment. Dogs are social animals and being secluded for 1 minute away from you in a dark room seems like an eternity to them which makes it effective.